Rain after a treatment is often a good thing because most of our treatments consist of fertilizer, a pre-emergent herbicide (weed control) or both. These products should be watered in within a few days for the best result.
Most lawns require between 1-1 ½” of water per week.This amount of moisture should be delivered by rainfall OR by watering in the early morning for approximately 15 minutes 3 days per week.Irrigation or watering by hose should be considered a supplement to regular rainfall.Do not water at night because this may lead to increased fungus/disease activity in the lawn, which is encouraged by dark and wet conditions. The goal is to have a dry lawn by nightfall whenever possible.
If we do not receive rainfall within a few days after a lawn treatment, it is best to water in fertilizer and pre-emergent products to receive the most benefit.Liquid weed, crabgrass or insect controls are most effective when allowed to absorb into the grass plant for a day or two before watering. Granular fertilizer and insect controls are most effective when watered in within 24-48 hours after application.Watering for approximately 20 minutes is sufficient.
Yes, it is possible, although very rare. Deep, established root systems could be destroyed by too frequent or an overabundance of water. Proper watering procedures prevent the risk of promoting disease. We would be happy to provide guidelines.
The lawn should be mowed at least once per week. It is almost always true that the greenest, healthiest most weed-free lawns are the ones which are regularly maintained at a height of 3-4”. ALWAYS use a sharp blade.A dull mower blade rips and shreds the tissues of the grass blade, causing them to become brown. A rapid escape of internal moisture from a torn blade allows fungal spores to easily enter the wounds, which leads to disease. If you are mowing in early morning, it is beneficial to water immediately after, allowing the grass plant to recover from the stress of being cut. With weekly mowing, it is recommended that you leave the clippings down to provide further nutrients to the lawn. Remove the clippings if the grass is allowed to grow to a height beyond 4” or if there are clumps remaining.
Core aeration opens up the soil, allowing air and water penetration into the root zone of the grass.This process loosens compacted soil and improves root development. Core aeration also helps break up thatch and increases the vigor of the turf.
The presence of moles does not necessarily mean there are grubs in the turfgrass.The mole’s main food source is earthworms. Grubs are active only at certain times of the year and the moles will feed on them if they are available.
Grubs are the larvae stage in the life cycle of a beetle. Damage occurs when the grubs feed on the root system of the turfgrass, causing the grass to die. The Green Scene applies a preventative grub control annually in our 5-step lawn care program to protect your lawn from the damage these insects cause.
Traps, baits and repellants are among the numerous methods for controlling moles. Locating the traps where there are active tunnels can be effective.If necessary, a wildlife control company can be utilized.
The Green Scene uses the most effective materials the lawn care industry has developed for insect control. Despite this, 100% control is almost impossible.An insect’s eggs can hatch after the application or adults can migrate from adjacent areas. Preventative applications are our best defense.
Lime helps reduce the acidity in the soil and allows the turf to absorb and use fertilizers more efficiently. It also supplies calcium to the soil which is an important nutrient for the photosynthesis process. Typical soils in this area are acidic and applying lime annually is very beneficial.
No. Diseases are usually activated by weather conditions and cannot be controlled until they appear. Keeping your lawn mowed (with a sharp blade) at the proper height and correct watering practices are the best defense. If your lawn is showing signs of disease pressure, please call our office and we will schedule a visit to the property to evaluate and treat if necessary. With our 5-step program, there is no additional charge for this service.
Often, the roots of the trees are competing with the grass for water and nutrients, leaving the grass with an inadequate supply of each. Also, grass requires a period of direct sunlight in order to grow properly. Planting an alternative to turf is best.
Since most soils are abundant with the seeds of annual weeds, they will germinate when the conditions are favorable (high soil temperatures, thin turf and water runoff areas are considered favorable conditions). Dandelions and weeds will seek the opportunity to grow in any area of weakness in turf density. Weather extremes usually create these weak areas, even in the best lawns. In addition, modern weed controls are designed to last only 7-10 days. In the summer months, high temperatures can create an ideal environment for weed growth, especially near driveway and sidewalk edges and curbs.We spray weeds lightly in summer to avoid damaging turf that is already stressed by the heat.
Absolutely not. This common activity is undesirable because it creates a vacant place for more weeds to germinate. In the case of nutsedge, pulling it can increase root activity causing it to spread. The correct way to control weeds and crabgrass is through maintaining thick turf.